Are you FULLY ENGAGED every time you train or compete with your dog? A few weeks ago at an AKC trial I had the opportunity to watch many of the runs in both the novice and the masters’ rings. I watched students and I watched strangers and I left shaking my head at how many handlers had no engagement with their dogs at all as they walked into the ring and to the start line. That lack of engagement was immediately obvious with some of the dogs showing displacement behaviors like sniffing, sight-seeing, scratching, getting up from start line positions, not releasing from stays and generally showing a total lack of enthusiasm or desire to get out there and play with their handlers.

Pie at the recent AKC trial

This lack of engagement was at times followed by non-qualifying and lack luster runs with a distracted dog and a distracted handler. I know handlers are nervous at times before a run, it happened to me that weekend running my young border collie Pie in AKC for the first time. But I knew I had to override my novice dog ring nerves and take care of my dog. The start line is the last place handlers should be distracted and looking around the ring to see where the course goes, but that is what they seemed to be doing. The dog follows them on leash into the ring obediently, the handler makes no eye contact as they are distractedly looking around to find the first few jumps and remind themselves of the course flow. Then they rip off the leash and leave the dog with a look on its face as if they have never met this stranger who took them into the ring.

What does it mean to be totally engaged? It could be lots of things, but overall there should be an obvious emotional and physical connection between handler and dog that could be visible to anyone watching. The handler could be engaging the dog by doing little tricks or games or just making some direct eye contact and verbal engagement, “are you READY to run? ” or possibly asking the dog to be attentive and obedient with quiet heelwork with a nice smile on her face, or physically prompting the dog by their own playful posture that the dog reads as time to go do something fun.

Pie at the recent AKC trial

While thinking about these distracted handlers, I started looking at my own start line with Pie. She tugged enthusiastically with me to the start line, and we had lots of connection there, but a few times I led out like I was running  Scoop or Ace, I just turned my back and walked to my lead-out spot. I deserved the distracted look my youngster  gave me one time when I turned to call her off the line, as well as the start line sit-stay that turned to a stand while my back was turned. The rest of the weekend I made sure I kept eye contact and praised her when I led out. I decided after that weekend that I really had to  help my students learn how to stay engaged with their dogs at the line.

So!

Tomorrow is day one of Power Paws Camp, our 14th year of teaching summer and winter camps. I wrote an article for the Camp Workbook on staying “Fully Engaged” and wanted to share it with all of you and all of my students who don’t get to attend camp this weekend. It is written to our Campers, but of course it applies to any kind of training or competition scenario. I hope it will help you remember to stay fully engaged with your dog if you want your dog to stay engaged with you!

Fully and extremely engaged!

(A letter to Campers from the 2013 Camp workbook)

Scoop and I share a moment

My goal instructing you at camp this year is not just to help you learn how to train and handle your agility dog more effectively; I want to help both you and your dog have more fun and stay more connected to each other. Success in our sport requires focus/connection and what I call engagement. You need to be fully engaged with the training and what you plan on doing with your dog on the course and you want your dog fully engaged in the process.

I have a goal for you at Camp this year. A goal of staying connected to your dog and him to you. From the moment you get your dog out of its crate to begin an exercise you need to have 100% of your dogs’ attention and you want to bring your dog to the correct state of arousal for the job before you get to the start line.

• A dog that is distracted needs to be focused back to the handler with tugging/tricks/or focus games. Try hand targeting, high five, figure-8 between your legs or other handler focus games before you run.
• When tugging with your dog, YOU get to disengage/end the tugging, not the dog. The goal for tugging is that YOU have to ask your dog to stop tugging and get the toy back from them not vice-versa. Try not to let your dog disengage from the tug game until YOU are finished and they were solidly tugging with you before you ended the game.
• EYE contact. Give it and ask for it and don’t start a run without it.
• A dog that is half asleep needs to be woken up and mentally and physically prepared to go play/work. AFTER you wake up and arouse your dog, you need tugging or silly tricks or some animated ground running work to engage them. Try scratch/rubbing your dog excitedly through their rib cage area to get their blood flowing and hope the brain follows!
• A dog that is over the top excited needs to be helped to have calm focus before the handler attempts a drill. Soft eye contact and quiet talk may help to calm them. If you are tugging keep it low key, the toy down at your knee or ground level, and don’t encourage growling.
• A dog that is stressed by the surroundings needs some fun/happy/silly talk from the handler so they forget to be worried. Look them in the eyes, give ‘em a kiss and ask them to trust that you will do the right thing to help them play through their fear.
• A suspicious dog that comes out of its crate and is immediately looking for a dog to warn away or chase needs some very special focus work on the handler and they need to be in motion WITH the handler and prevented from staring at other dogs through focus games and possibly control head halters on their way from crating to start line. If your dog will stay focused on you while tugging that is likely your best offense.

In order to do any of the above things to get your dog engaged, YOU need to be fully engaged.

Scoop at the startline

Don’t turn your back on your dog or mentally “drop” them. This goes for the start line and in between obstacles if you have a whoopsie and need to start over. When you walk to the start line keep your dogs’ attention by making eye contact, tugging, praising or saying silly stuff so that your dog knows that you are being attentive to them.

If you have a momentary mental lapse on course, or you or your dog have a screw up and you need to get restarted on the course or talk to the instructor about your handling:

• Call your dog to you immediately, don’t let them wander.
• Don’t talk to the instructor until you get control of your dog!
• Tug if possible, or give them a treat if appropriate to the situation and if they responded to the recall immediately.
• You could also ask them to lie down or sit and praise them for doing so.
• If you have called your dog to you, gently hold them by the collar, or kneel down next to them. You could put your arm around them and cuddle them to your side to gently confine them so they can’t nick off or get distracted by dogs, people or surroundings.
• Small dogs could be picked up, but don’t grab at them, and try often to keep your small dogs feet on the ground where they play and work.
• Always take a few moments to re-engage or play with your dog before you start the drill again.
• ALWAYS re-engage and reward your dog at the end of every run. Throw your toy, or have a game of tug. If you can’t tug or play retrieve then stay engaged with extremely lavish praise and some kind of physical play or a bit of rough housing one-on-one connection and of course eye contact. Don’t dis-engage from your dog until he is off the course and back at the crate area.
• If you need to talk to the instructor or repeat some part of the drill, reward and play momentarily, THEN go get the info from your instructor.

Stay fully engaged with your dog and it is likely your dog will stay fully engaged with you!

NJG

PS:Thank you Erika Mauer for the Pie photos from the trial!

At 4- That my passion for dogs would turn into a career.

At 18- How I wish I had taken a path to an advanced degree in animal behavior, I would surely love to have that piece of paper now!

In my 20’s- To train every behavior long before you ever need to use it. It took me some time to discover that you don’t train door/gate behaviors when you want to go out the door with four dogs crowding you to go for a walk. That you don’t train stays when it is imperative that your dog do so. That you don’t teach recalls when you really need your dog to come to save his life. You don’t wait to train your dog to tolerate physical exams while you are at the vet during an emergency. Train it BEFORE you need it.

30’s- That training with compulsion will take you three times as long as training with rewards.

• First you lose the time you took while trying to force your animal to do something
• Next you lose the time it takes to rebuild your relationship and reestablish the trust you destroyed
• And now it still takes the time to teach the behavior the right way using reinforcement, right after you extinguish all the bad behavior and start back at zero

40’s-

• That teaching my students to play with their dogs would be way more important than teaching them to weave
• The importance of goal setting and record keeping. I wish I had a better paper trail of where I have been and what I have done to teach skills to my dogs and what I was thinking at any given day, month or year in my career. I’d have started keeping better training logs and diaries.
• Don’t bother to teach the dog what you don’t want him to do, just teach him what you DO want him to do. It takes twice as long to teach while moving in two directions at the same time.
• I wish I had been able to look into the future and see where one short trip to Europe with Scud in 1996 on the AKC World Team would change my entire life!

Mid forties- I would have jumped on the first plane to Arkansas to train with Bob Bailey, instead of waiting 10 years

Late forties- That foundation and groundwork is the most important part of agility training, obstacles are easy.

50’s-

• That standing still would be one of the most important lessons I would take away from my first week of training with Bob Bailey.
• That Chicken Camp and Bob Bailey would be the most valuable of ALL my animal training lessons!
• That training is a mechanical skill. (Bob Bailey)

Mid 50’s- That any dog can learn to retrieve if you understand how to use a clicker and some cookies.

Late Late fifties- How important massage is to my dogs’ and my own health

Last year – That my youngster Scoop would seem to be recovered from all his health issues and look as good as he did in training today.

Two months ago- That a sure fire way to insure that he stays sound would be to get a new puppy that I really was not quite ready for!

Last month- That focusing a little too much on food training and tricks can set back your game of tug with your puppy.

A puppy?

Last week-That even though I didn’t give her 100% of my heart for the first month for a variety of reasons, that it would be inevitable if I brought a puppy into my life that she would be mine and I would not be able to give her back.

Yesterday- That I might as well introduce her to everyone since she’s here to stay!

Meet Pie.

Photos of Pie by Lali Miramon

This post was inspired by blog action day on the subject of “If I knew then what I know now”.

http://dog-agility-blog-events.posterous.com/

I hope your career with your dog mostly has you looking forward not back, but sometimes it is fun to dream……

Nancy

Figured I would shock everyone and write two days in a row! Scoop, Ace and I are home from the trial. We had fun, but yesterday Ace and I were perfect, and today I pulled him off a weave entry:(   Don’t you just hate it when your dog is obedient?

Scoop was a bit better today, we hung at ring side for at least an hour and he was quiet while dogs were running. I worked a class jump bar setting and was able to leave him in a down while tied to an immovable object while I went in and set jump bars. There was always someone with him, don’t worry….. I did not leave my puppy tied at ringside!   I was happy that he let me get up go in the ring and waited calmly with them while I was gone for a minute. And he didn’t  mob too many folks today, however we went through 4 sticks of string cheese making sure he happily sat when I asked. Scoop seems to love everybody which is good and bad news when I am trying to keep his feet on the ground and his attention on me. We did lots of heelwork and playing and overall had some nice training moments.

Back at home yesterday I practiced doing recalls to side from a sit stay. I trust now that Scoop will sit and stay without scooching around even if I am 30 or 40 feet from him. Granted, this is in home field without lots of distractions. I always used to return to his side to release him, I have not done that many recalls from a sit stay with a lot of distance. I have done lots of sit stay and release to tug with me while I am reasonably close by, maybe  no more than 10 feet. I have been building this slowly so that we don’t have errors, and still let him drive with enthusiasm to me. If ever he moves a foot after I leave him I return to release him, he will not get to move towards me at a distance after an error on the sit stay.

So yesterday I lined him up, dropped the toy at my side, stepped away, called him to my side, rewarded, then spun with him and said get it, to let him have his toy. No problem on multiple attempts from a short distance with treats as a reward, and a Riot stick as the toy. Then I got out the soccer ball and the results were a teensy bit different.  Like this…Scoop lines up nicley, he is staying, I drop soccer ball, I step away, I release him  and he goes direct to the soccer ball. Whoops. So we built this slowly. More recalls to side with cookies, low level toy again, then very casual placement of soccer ball at my side, and we had success.  I am going out to train and see if I can add another level of  progression to the game today. I will let you know how it goes and show you the next step, next time. I hope you have as much fun training this game with your pup as I had with mine!

NJG

The game went like this:

That header may not accurately describe the creativity sessions I have with my puppy. I am not shaping anything, expecting anything or training anything. I am just spending some time sitting on the floor in the kitchen or my office, or out in the agility field. I make sure there are some toys available, or just some stuff, like water bowls or boxes. And then I just watch him play. I engage only as much as he wants, he comes crashing in to sit on my lap, or bring me some stuff and he cuddles or tugs. Or we just “hang”. It is 10:30 at night and I just sat and watched him go cracker dog in my office for 10 minutes. My office isn’t large but he did the butt run, and carried and threw around a metal bowl and a henrietta chicken toy. He squeezed under the shelfs and drug out some empty boxes which he proceeded to jump on and push around and generally just had a good party with. And then he crashed. Sound asleep in 10 seconds after hitting the floor.

I like spending some time every day with no goals, nothing to accomplish. Just see what he wants to do and spend hang out time with him.  He is fun to be with and he is a time thief.

I want to train the fun stuff, but am trying to focus on recalls and playing and really necessary puppy stuff. I put him on the grooming table every day and do little cc stuff with handling and brushes and the drommel. He has a tendency to put up a bit of a fuss about grooming and handling and I don’t want that to be an issue of course. After many training sessions he has stopped biting at the brush, and stands nicely for handling and grooming. I need a helper to do his nails with the drommel. I could force the issue but I don’t need to. If Jim feeds him cookies I can do all his toes pretty quickly without a problem. On my own while he is on the table I pick up a foot, treat, handle each toe, treat, touch a toe with a drommel, treat etc. I feed him for not reacting to me picking up the foot or touching his toes. If he fusses I stop, but no cookie. I do less the next time and praise and treat him for being compliant. I like to keep the treat bowl where he can see it, but not reach it. This works for him, but could be too distracting for some dogs.

I was in Oregon at Robert and Lisa Michelons teaching over the last weekend. It was my second voyage in the RV and so much fun staying at their beautiful home, parked out in a lovely grass yard with views of the mountains.

Ace and Scoop had a great time. I really used my treat and train a lot. Scoop stayed in an expen part of the time by the RV and I put the machine in the pen with him. I could reward him from the agility field where I was teaching, what fun for both of us.

He spent much of the last two days with us at the seminar, hanging out with his new friend, Cheryle Davis. She took him for walks, and let him socialize with some of the other pups, and of course let him have afternoon siestas on her lap. On two evenings we went into town for dinner and Scoop came along so that I could get him into the city for some socializing. One of the restaurants was right on the Rogue River, and was a bustling tourist area. The boats were on the river, and the kids were out with skate boards. Lisa Robert and I had a table on the deck, so as soon as we ordered our dinner I nicked off to get Scoop and had a walk that took us through the patios and dinner areas. He got to see waterfalls, lots of people, and walk up and down 100 steps. His first impressions were just slightly worried about all the goings on. I walked briskly with him, giving some cookies and encouraging him to tug on the leash. I put him back in the car while we ate, then got him back out again for another trip around the area. The second time he was great! Tugging, playing, wanting to jump on the rocks in the landscaped areas and walk through the water in the fountains. I am going to remember this two step process the next time we go somewhere he might think is a bit noisy or stressful. Make the first pass fast and fun and then leave. Go back a second time for longer strolls and focusing on what is in the environment.

Scoop and Ace got a bit crazy digging in mole holes one evening at the Michelons. I was wondering what Scoop would look like as a tri and now I know.

Time for bed for both of us. I am home for a week now and hope to spend some time writing more about our adventures and training this next week. I love my silly, wild, pushy, cuddly pup, hope you love yours too.

NJG

Today I wanted to take photos of puppy retrieves. Of course, the place we do this best is the kitchen, sitting on the floor. Photog Marcy Mantell said no-go on the indoor photos with flying pup. Speed and no light does not mix. So out to the yard we went where we sometimes have good retrieves and sometimes we have lots of chase- no- come- back- with- toy. Still, the photos were cute and I have a record now of both good and bad retrieving at 9 weeks.  Yeah, I should have spent more time outside, but it was 100 degrees last weekend, and we played inside. Should have trained that more before Iwanted him to retrieve in front of the camera outdoors!

We wasted most of the today’s food alottment working on walking beside me without attacking my feet. I wasn’t going to waste so much time on moving ground work at this early age, but clicking and treating walking beside me is what works to keep him thinking about the position and not thinking about killing my tender toes. I can also carry a dangling toy or leash and get him to tug while walking. The attention is on killing toys not my shoes. It is working. I could not walk 10 feet with him on leash a few days ago without the shoe shark coming in for blood. Another method that works is that I can totally stop moving when he comes in for a nibble, nothing interesting happening when I am standing still, and he will stop. I think this annoying behavior will be gone in a couple more days of lots of treats, patience and toy work.

If I only practiced walking on leash when I really needed to get somewhere it would be totally frustrating. I learned 35 years ago when I strated training horses that you never wait to train something till you need the behavior NOW. Like you don’t wait to teach the stallion colt to wear a halter and load in the trailer until he cuts his leg and you have to load a couple hundred pound monster who is in panic into the trailer NOW. When they hit the ground the halter goes on and you feed them from the back of the trailer until they think it is fun jumping in and out.

This one training detail has always been at the forefront of my training plans. I don’t train walking on leash when I need to get to the field right NOW with the pup, I train it when I have no need to go anywhere other than up and down the yard to teach leash manners. I don’t teach “wait at the door skills’ when I really need to go in or out the door. I train it when I definitely don’t need to pass through the door and when I have the time to put in the effort and energy and reinforce all the skills I need long before I really need them.

In a couple days we head out of town for our first weekend of shows, Ace and the nnp (no name puppy) and me in the new RV. I am looking forward to the adventure and spending lots of play time with a pup I hope has a name before I get back home on Monday.

Here’s a couple more cute shots Marcy took of the angel puppy.
I love training pups!!!

NJG